It figures, I get a reliable internet connection in Nigeria and then I don't flip any new posts. I'd like to say that several ideas for posts have been baking in this peanut butter cup-crammed cranium of mine, but it's just not the case. Rather, I've been fiddling with an infected ear and concentrating on my deep un-desire to return to the Motherland. (Perhaps it's just delicate ears, but enduring endless hours of stock Ipod earphone trauma reliably causes extreme auricular discomfort, repeated canal-probing of the index finger and eventual infection.)
Maintaining a regularly updated blog is hard. Especially for someone obsessed with nothing and fascinated by everything, keeping usual appointments requires a feeling of determination that for me generally only lasts a week or so. As you have all come to expect, I'll probably post tomorrow and perhaps the next day, then two days later, then a week later, then sit around, come back and rationalize my tardiness...like I'm doing here.
Plainly, I'm not looking forward to returning to Nigeria. I have no freedom, no leisure time, nothing really to look forward to. Paychecks me very little when you are unhappy and they mean even less when you're ecstatic. I'm somewhere between discontented and depressed. It's probably closer to the former as I believe it's uncommon for the totally despondent to as open and forthright about their feelings.
I'm returning to Nigeria in four days. Let's make the best of it!
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Some Port Art Work
A wall painting inside a shed at the port. I'm sure I've disappointed everyone with the lack of pictures thus far, but dread not, after seven weeks I'm finally connected to a reliable internet source.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Hoping For Peace
To those not privy, a sixty-day government ceasefire and offer of unqualified amnesty toward Delta militants ends at the stroke of midnight this day. As the grace period was coming to an end and several prominent militant leaders had still not accepted the amnesty, there was fear that tomorrow the country would awake to yet another nightmare; a renewed stage of militant sabotage and government retribution. However, to delight and disappointment, the remaining principals that were yet to accept the amnesty as of just a few days ago have now accepted the government offer, bringing what appears to be at least an extension to the current peace.
“There is peace now,” said Isaac, one of our security officers, “now all American and British companies need to come to Nigeria.” There was extraordinary excitement in Warri because Government Tompolo finally accepted the amnesty last night in the capital. Hailing from Warri, he is a well-known government dissenter and rebel leader. Because of the news, the noontime streets were crammed with agitated traffic, everyone eager to watch his public disarmament. Young men stuffed themselves into speeding minivans, their upper halves obtruding from the windows and open side-sliding doors. Waving banners and whooping as we passed, they were supporters of Tompolo, surely dismayed by the surprising turn.
Expectations are too great of the amnesty. “Reformed” militants will expect money, education and jobs. The government will be expected to deliver on these promises, and to deliver immediately. It is my hope that they can deliver, but the government has a tremendous problem providing these things to the general population on a regular basis. What makes it possible to afford these measures now?
To me, the amnesty sends a contradictory and unfair message to the people of Nigeria. In one sense, the amnesty is beneficial. Potentially, it could end violence in the Delta region and provide many with formerly unavailable opportunities. However in some cases, the government will provide these opportunities to undeserving criminals (not to imply that the Nigerian government is totally free of criminality, many of its statesmen publicly admit to graft’s grip upon the various levels of government). It’s hard not to feel like the government is simply ignoring the struggling but law-abiding citizens because those citizens aren’t insurrecting against the state. Perhaps it is a worse case scenario but, if the lawful become alienated by the government’s action, what, then, keeps the lawful from turning to militancy?
I’m hoping for the best.
“There is peace now,” said Isaac, one of our security officers, “now all American and British companies need to come to Nigeria.” There was extraordinary excitement in Warri because Government Tompolo finally accepted the amnesty last night in the capital. Hailing from Warri, he is a well-known government dissenter and rebel leader. Because of the news, the noontime streets were crammed with agitated traffic, everyone eager to watch his public disarmament. Young men stuffed themselves into speeding minivans, their upper halves obtruding from the windows and open side-sliding doors. Waving banners and whooping as we passed, they were supporters of Tompolo, surely dismayed by the surprising turn.
Expectations are too great of the amnesty. “Reformed” militants will expect money, education and jobs. The government will be expected to deliver on these promises, and to deliver immediately. It is my hope that they can deliver, but the government has a tremendous problem providing these things to the general population on a regular basis. What makes it possible to afford these measures now?
To me, the amnesty sends a contradictory and unfair message to the people of Nigeria. In one sense, the amnesty is beneficial. Potentially, it could end violence in the Delta region and provide many with formerly unavailable opportunities. However in some cases, the government will provide these opportunities to undeserving criminals (not to imply that the Nigerian government is totally free of criminality, many of its statesmen publicly admit to graft’s grip upon the various levels of government). It’s hard not to feel like the government is simply ignoring the struggling but law-abiding citizens because those citizens aren’t insurrecting against the state. Perhaps it is a worse case scenario but, if the lawful become alienated by the government’s action, what, then, keeps the lawful from turning to militancy?
I’m hoping for the best.
Friday, October 2, 2009
Independence Day
Yesterday was the 49th anniversary of Nigeria's independence from Britain. Despite some scattered local excitement, the day had a rather somber tone culminating with words of frustration and disappointment from President Yar'adua. As expected, most of my expat acquaintances snidely commented on "just how far" Nigeria has come since independence.
Despite the unfair comments regarding Nigeria's current condition, they still contain some truth. Post-colonial Africa is in distress. If Africa were still under full European control, perhaps the continent would have much-improved infrastructure, more competitive economies and a higher standard of living. That's a possibility. However, I doubt the likelihood of that making Africa in general and Nigeria in particular "better off." Surely the continuation of colonialism would have still kept unreachable the benefits of economic progress from the majority of Africans. But even in one of the world's fastest-growing developing economies, Nigeria, the majority are still cut off from the benefits of economic growth.
So, what is there really to celebrate when, over the course of nearly fifty years, the country has faced constant turmoil in the form of military coups, civil war and corruption? There are some things to celebrate: the continuing growth of the middle class and a decade of democratic even if-flawed processes, the longest such streak since the country's birth. That is positive progress but Nigeria still needs more. Nigeria, and Africa as a whole, needs a generation of people like the generation that championed for independence forty and fifty years ago. They need a generation of people who are willing to fight for democratic processes through democratic processes. It needs the corrupt and indignant middle generations to realize their failures and step aside, allowing new voices to be heard rather than silenced.
Despite the unfair comments regarding Nigeria's current condition, they still contain some truth. Post-colonial Africa is in distress. If Africa were still under full European control, perhaps the continent would have much-improved infrastructure, more competitive economies and a higher standard of living. That's a possibility. However, I doubt the likelihood of that making Africa in general and Nigeria in particular "better off." Surely the continuation of colonialism would have still kept unreachable the benefits of economic progress from the majority of Africans. But even in one of the world's fastest-growing developing economies, Nigeria, the majority are still cut off from the benefits of economic growth.
So, what is there really to celebrate when, over the course of nearly fifty years, the country has faced constant turmoil in the form of military coups, civil war and corruption? There are some things to celebrate: the continuing growth of the middle class and a decade of democratic even if-flawed processes, the longest such streak since the country's birth. That is positive progress but Nigeria still needs more. Nigeria, and Africa as a whole, needs a generation of people like the generation that championed for independence forty and fifty years ago. They need a generation of people who are willing to fight for democratic processes through democratic processes. It needs the corrupt and indignant middle generations to realize their failures and step aside, allowing new voices to be heard rather than silenced.
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
The News
To read about what's really going on in Nigeria, or at least from the expats' points of view, check out Oyibos World. It's an informative website and has not disappointed so far (but I've only been reading a few days). As of now, you can read articles ranging from Six Flags' intention to build a theme park in Calabar, to what MEND, Movement for the Emancipation of the Niger Delta, thinks about China ("we see them as locusts who will ravage any farmland in minutes." Jeez guys, take it eezzy.), to how to pick out fresh fish. Of course the "fish" Oyibos is referring to is like the Flounder from Animal House; it means a newbie.
From what I've read so far, the website is quite useful. Articles are to the point, brief and without extreme bias. All in all, it's solid journalism.
Speaking of Oyibos, I've been wondering since arrival what the locals called white people. I'm used to Nigerians addressing me as "Mr. Shaun" or "Boss" and nothing more (except when I'm addressed as "Master," which makes me uncomfortable and deserves a post of its own). Sure enough, I realized today why the expat run website is called Oyibos World. Oyibo means "white person," or "foreigner." While walking down the port terminal, a young fellow in a speeding truck reached his head out the window and yelled, "OYIBO!" Finally. I was beginning to think this wasn't Africa, the land of dependable ridicule. How long must someone be in another country without being singled out? In Nigeria, it's taken exactly six weeks. In Senegal it took only six hours. I well remember walking down a dirty Dakar street, searching for food, swarmed by young Senegalese child shouting, "Tubak! Tubak!" You can always count on unwanted attention there.
From what I've read so far, the website is quite useful. Articles are to the point, brief and without extreme bias. All in all, it's solid journalism.
Speaking of Oyibos, I've been wondering since arrival what the locals called white people. I'm used to Nigerians addressing me as "Mr. Shaun" or "Boss" and nothing more (except when I'm addressed as "Master," which makes me uncomfortable and deserves a post of its own). Sure enough, I realized today why the expat run website is called Oyibos World. Oyibo means "white person," or "foreigner." While walking down the port terminal, a young fellow in a speeding truck reached his head out the window and yelled, "OYIBO!" Finally. I was beginning to think this wasn't Africa, the land of dependable ridicule. How long must someone be in another country without being singled out? In Nigeria, it's taken exactly six weeks. In Senegal it took only six hours. I well remember walking down a dirty Dakar street, searching for food, swarmed by young Senegalese child shouting, "Tubak! Tubak!" You can always count on unwanted attention there.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Over Exposure Gave Me River Blindness
Today was a frustrating day. Nearly every day is frustrating. If there is one thing you can count on every day, it is excuses. (Normally, I would say there are two things you can count on, but the electricity did not go out today.) The topic "making excuses" is a regular subject discussed with my crew, and as most recently their excuses have become utter nonsense, the topic has been especially concentrated upon this past week. That being so, one of my crew members felt it necessary to prove with convincing absoluteness that he was not fabricating any detail of his story. Mid-morning, I was approached by a helper claiming to be in need of medical assistance. "Boss, I need to go to the doctor."
"What's the matter?" I inquired, expecting the usual response of, "I'm not feeling fine," and nothing more.
"I'm not feeling fine." As he said this, he reached toward his lower abdomen. His overalls already unzipped to his waist, I expected him to rub his stomach and wince to express some flu-like, malarial symptoms, which do quite happen to be a regular occurrence.
"What's the matter?" I asked again and, looking down, I soon realized that, grabbing it's elastic waistband, he was pulling down his boxers to show me his penis. I caught enough of his member to identify it's phallic shape, but then quickly turned my head away, gesturing as if disgusted. "Boss, we are both men..."
I'm not sure why I turned away so suddenly and uneasily. I'm not afraid of another man's penis and I'm not homophobic. Besides, I'm used to men "whipping it out" to relieve themselves by the roadside and beside boxes. Perhaps I felt threatened by his manhood. Maybe I was disturbed to think I would see some hideous growth or fluid oozing from it's tip. Whatever caused my reaction, I ushered him off to the doctor and, once he was out of site, began to laugh to myself. I couldn't blame him for his honesty.
Later in the day he returned. "Boss, I have a boil. I will return tomorrow to have it cut off."
"I think you see too many women."
Grinning and pointing to his privates he said, "Yes, many women cross this." Rather unfortunately I believe it's true. As he has already admitted to having four children with four different women, I worry another may be on the way.
"What's the matter?" I inquired, expecting the usual response of, "I'm not feeling fine," and nothing more.
"I'm not feeling fine." As he said this, he reached toward his lower abdomen. His overalls already unzipped to his waist, I expected him to rub his stomach and wince to express some flu-like, malarial symptoms, which do quite happen to be a regular occurrence.
"What's the matter?" I asked again and, looking down, I soon realized that, grabbing it's elastic waistband, he was pulling down his boxers to show me his penis. I caught enough of his member to identify it's phallic shape, but then quickly turned my head away, gesturing as if disgusted. "Boss, we are both men..."
I'm not sure why I turned away so suddenly and uneasily. I'm not afraid of another man's penis and I'm not homophobic. Besides, I'm used to men "whipping it out" to relieve themselves by the roadside and beside boxes. Perhaps I felt threatened by his manhood. Maybe I was disturbed to think I would see some hideous growth or fluid oozing from it's tip. Whatever caused my reaction, I ushered him off to the doctor and, once he was out of site, began to laugh to myself. I couldn't blame him for his honesty.
Later in the day he returned. "Boss, I have a boil. I will return tomorrow to have it cut off."
"I think you see too many women."
Grinning and pointing to his privates he said, "Yes, many women cross this." Rather unfortunately I believe it's true. As he has already admitted to having four children with four different women, I worry another may be on the way.
Monday, September 28, 2009
Updating
I'm falling behind. I haven't posted in ages and I ought to be changing my blog's name from
"Christmas in Islam" to "Ramadan in Christianity...sort of." It's difficult to keep up when free moments are sparse and filled with either exercise or alcohol. Sadly, there isn't much else to do. As such, a job search is possibly drawing Nye.
I've always considered finding a job rather easy; I've always been fortunate even in my laziness. But, for others, it's not so easy. Unemployment in Warri is astronomical. It's rumored that it reaches 85%, which is unfathomable to most. I'm not sure I trust this number and have not done the research to confirm, but it makes for interesting discussion. Still, unemployment is a serious issue in the Delta region. It's distressing that a country of such immense environmental riches is so economically dysfunctional.
Nigerians share my dismay. Many do not understand what happens with their potential wealth and, frankly, neither do I. Much goes without explanation. The blame game is excruciatingly complex. Depending on who's pointing the finger, blame is placed on warloads, corporations, elected officials, communities, labor, committees, pirates, law, expatriates, terrorists, chiefs and so on. Everyone deserves some of the blame. What binds us to the blame is corruption. It shrouds us all regardless of an individual's knowing or unknowing involvement. Unknowing involvement is still tacit consent.
"Christmas in Islam" to "Ramadan in Christianity...sort of." It's difficult to keep up when free moments are sparse and filled with either exercise or alcohol. Sadly, there isn't much else to do. As such, a job search is possibly drawing Nye.
I've always considered finding a job rather easy; I've always been fortunate even in my laziness. But, for others, it's not so easy. Unemployment in Warri is astronomical. It's rumored that it reaches 85%, which is unfathomable to most. I'm not sure I trust this number and have not done the research to confirm, but it makes for interesting discussion. Still, unemployment is a serious issue in the Delta region. It's distressing that a country of such immense environmental riches is so economically dysfunctional.
Nigerians share my dismay. Many do not understand what happens with their potential wealth and, frankly, neither do I. Much goes without explanation. The blame game is excruciatingly complex. Depending on who's pointing the finger, blame is placed on warloads, corporations, elected officials, communities, labor, committees, pirates, law, expatriates, terrorists, chiefs and so on. Everyone deserves some of the blame. What binds us to the blame is corruption. It shrouds us all regardless of an individual's knowing or unknowing involvement. Unknowing involvement is still tacit consent.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
